Welcome to Russia!

For years, Moscow hotels were plagued by the same Soviet-bequeathed deficiencies the citys other service industries had: poor value, inconsistent service, and a limited selection. These days, the situation has improved over what it was five or even three years ago, but progress is still slow. Four- and five-star luxury behemoths still dominate, although theres also a growing number of unfrilly, steel-and-Plexiglas business hotels that fill their rooms with exhibition-goers and salespeople. Unfortunately, only a handful of places in the center could be called both intimate and affordable.

That said, the glitzy affairs that crowd ulitsa Tverskaya and other boulevards downtown are world-class, with soaring marble foyers, celestial spas, and increasingly gracious and well-trained staff. Many of them replaced or transformed old Soviet gostinitsas (hotels) beyond recognition—both architecturally and service-wise. The magnificent Radisson Royal spread red carpets over the remains of the former Hotel Ukraine and became the top luxury business hotel in the city. A sparkling InterContinental (the first in Russia) arrived at the site of former Minsk hotel on Tverskaya. The Moscow Ritz formerly known as Intourist and steps from the Kremlin, still sets the gold standard for opulence and fine service in the city. All eyes are on a much-anticipated opening of the Four Seasons on Manezh Square, designed to be a replica of the iconic Soviet Hotel Moskva, famous for having its image on the label of Stolichnaya vodka.

Moscow’s hotels live up to their dubious reputation as the most expensive in Europe. A major shortage of worthy choices still plagues the midrange segment, especially inside the Garden Ring. Within those bounds, you might have to scour every side street to find a room for under 6,000R a night, and for that price, you typically won’t get the breakfast spread and heated pool you could expect at a typical chain place in the U.S. However, amenities are improving rapidly. Once the norm was plywood furniture and tarnished polyester upholstery, but now furnishings are sturdier and there are softer linens on firmer beds. (Plenty of hotels still haven’t taken up that ubiquitous mouse-brown carpeting, though.)

A glaring Soviet carryover is in the approach to service. The customer is not always right at many midrange hotels, so it helps to treat the staff with extra care when making requests and even when asking questions. And ask questions you should; because standards vary widely, it’s advisable to ask about everything you might want—including turndown service, assistance with concert tickets, and no-smoking rooms—before booking. Another pitfall to keep in mind when booking is the 18% VAT Russian hotels impose. Although in most cases the amount is already added to the room price, some hotels (particularly the upscale ones) prefer to charge that on top of the listed price. Read the fine print and rate rules.

At hotels in Moscow, someone on staff usually speaks English, so you can almost always find someone who can help you. However, English-speakers typically aren’t fluent, so be patient when explaining anything complicated. In general, very few people will be offended if you speak English with them—in fact, many are eager for the practice—but do ask whether someone knows the language first (Vi gavaritye pa-angliisky?).

If you’re a confident traveler, you might consider renting a short-term apartment like those provided by Four Squares Apartments, as they often provide the best value. You might even be able to find living quarters near the Red Square that dwarf the suites of a luxury hotel next door. But if you want to be central, expect to pay a hefty sum no matter where you stay; for now, that’s what Moscow demands.

Prices in the reviews are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season.

KREMLIN/RED SQUARE

Ararat Park Hyatt.

HOTEL| One of the most luxurious of Moscow’s hotels combines the traditional and modern, with a sparkling lobby, light and spacious rooms elegantly done with beige furniture and glass tables, and beautifully equipped bathrooms. The Café Ararat, a replica of the landmark café of the same name that stood on this site in the 1960s, serves Armenian cuisine and has design elements based on ancient Armenian culture. The Bolshoi Theatre and the Kremlin are a short walk away. Pros: central location; great city view from rooftop Conservatory Lounge; plush linens; free fruit in rooms every day. Cons: restaurants are overpriced; room rates are among highest in the city. |Rooms from: 14900R | 4 ul. Neglinnaya, Kremlin/Red Square | 495/783–1234 | www.moscow.park.hyatt.com | 216 rooms, 21 suites | No meals | Station: Okhotny Ryad or Teatralnaya.

Metropol(Мет­ро­поль). 

HOTEL| Built between 1899 and 1903, Moscow’s most fabled hotel transports you back in a time—whether it’s the art nouveau facade, the opulent restaurants, the guest rooms with hardwood floors topped with Oriental carpets, or the antiques-filled suites. Lenin spoke frequently in the assembly hall and David Lean filmed part of Doctor Zhivagoin the restaurant, and the outstanding service and amenities carry on the tradition. The location, opposite the Bolshoi Theatre and a five-minute walk from the Kremlin, is top-notch. Pros: superb location; beautiful interiors; great buffet breakfast. Cons: some guest rooms need updating (renovations are ongoing). |ooms from: 9900R|2 proyezd Teatralny,Kremlin/Red Square| 499/5017800|363 rooms, 72 suites | No meals | Station:Ploshchad Revolutsii or Teatralnaya.

Savoy(Са­вой).

HOTEL | Gilded chandeliers, ceiling paintings, and polished paneling invoke the spirit of prerevolutionary Russia, as do the best of the high-ceilinged rooms and spacious marble bathrooms. The Savoy opened in 1913 in connection with celebrations commemorating the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty, and this spirit is most in evidence in the ornate dining room, where a complimentary breakfast is served: a pianist serenades, a fountain bubbles, and painted cherubs seemingly float among clouds. Rooms on the second floor have towering ceilings—they get progressively lower as you reach higher floors—and beds are king-sized, with orthopedic mattresses but also bland, unluxurious bedspreads. The Savoy’s real trump card is its location—ploshchad Teatralnaya and the Kremlin are literally around the corner, and though the views look on a humble side street, this keeps things quiet. Pros: great location; beautiful interiors; swimming pool open 24 hours. Cons: some rooms are small, especially given the price; can be overrun by business people and bureaucrats on weekdays. | Rooms from: 14200R | 3/6 ul. Rozhdestvenka, bldg. 1, Kremlin/Red Square | 495/620–8500 | www.savoy.ru | 67 rooms, 11 suites | No meals | Station: Kuznetsky Most.

KITAI GOROD

Budapest (Бу­дапешт). 

HOTEL | What opened in 1876 as a club for noblemen became a hotel for visiting Soviet bureaucrats to stay while on official business and now is a homey if somewhat outdated place to stay in the city center with high ceilings, skirted bedspreads, and tasseled lampshades. A restaurant serves a conservative range of European dishes, there’s a cozy bar, and just up the block there’s Gogol, a trendy and inexpensive café that serves traditional Russian food. The Kremlin is also just a short walk away. Pros: great location; nice Old World ambience. Cons: Soviet-style service can be a bit indifferent; dated decor. | Rooms from: 9800R | 18 Petrovsky Linii, bldg. 2, Kitai Gorod | 495/925–3050 |www.hotel-budapest.ru | 116 rooms, 8 suites | No meals | Station: Kuznetsky Most.

Four Squares Apartments.

RENTAL | This outfit offers a good variety of serviced apartments ranging from studios to spacious two-bedrooms, all with modern furnishings, Wi-Fi, and full kitchens—and all for about half of what you typically pay at a hotel. Apartments are available in many neighborhoods around town and most are in the center; they have a particularly good selection of places near Patriarch’s Ponds. The agency is one of a handful in the city that specializes in accommodations for foreigners who come on short- or medium-term business and they have helpful staff who speak fluent English. They aren’t available 24 hours, though, so don’t lose your keys. Pros: spacious, modern accommodations; full kitchens. Cons: lack of on-site service staff. | Rooms from: 5600R | 18a per. Milyutinsky, ste. 37, Kitai Gorod | 495/937–5572 | www.foursquares.com | 26 apartments | No meals | Station: Chekhovskaya.

Mamaison Pokrovka.

HOTEL | Rooms at this rather puzzling place at the end of winding ulitsa Pokrovka, all of them suites, pull off that elusive combination of poshness and comfort; there’s lots of empty square feet to stretch out in and many have well-equipped kitchens. The lobby, with circular violet-and-gold couches that evoke flying saucers, is a refreshing contrast to the humdrum facade. Through a glass door across from reception, a restaurant with hanging steel-globe lamps and blob-shaped couches keep you aboard the starship. The staff can seem less than affable and there’s no view to speak of from any room, but the neighborhood is peaceful as well as close to the center. Pros: stylish, comfortable rooms; close to many restaurants and metro stations. Cons: poor views; impersonal service. | Rooms from: 10643R | 40 ul. Pokrovka, bldg. 2, Kitai Gorod | 495/229–5757 | www.mamaison.com/moscow-pokrovka.html | 84 suites | No meals |Station: Krasniye Vorota.

Marriott Royal Aurora (Мар­ри­отт Рой­ал Ав­ро­ра Marriott Rojal Avrora).

HOTEL | Rooms meet Marriott’s typical standards of corporatized comfort, but stellar service sets the bland surroundings—a product of Moscow’s mid-’90s construction boom—apart from most business-oriented lodgings.The Bolshoi Theatre is a short walk away and there’s full butler service for all guests. Pros: perfect location; helpful staff. Cons: rather monotonous surroundings; overpriced Internet access, breakfast, and executive car service. |Rooms from: 9200R | 20 ul. Petrovka, bldg. 11, Kitai Gorod | 495/937–1000 | www.marriott.com | 227 rooms, 36 suites | No meals | Station: Okhotny Ryad or Kuznetsky Most.

Sretenskaya (Сре­тен­ская). 

HOTEL | Surround yourself in the atmosphere of an old Russian fairy tale: there’s massive carved oak furniture, stained-glass windows, and wall paintings depicting popular tales like “Little Scarlet Flower” (the Russian version of “Beauty and the Beast”). The lobby bar is nicely set in the winter garden, where there’s rich vegetation. Guest rooms are quite modern, with all amenities, though they aren’t as imaginative as the hotel’s public areas. Though centrally located, Sretenskaya is a 25-minute walk from the Red Square. Moscow’s famous boulevards and the Garden Ring are only steps away.  Pros: helpful staff; excellent restaurant. Cons: long walk to Red Square; small rooms; expensive. | Rooms from: 9986R | 15 ul. Sretenka, Kitai Gorod | 495/933–5544 | www.hotel-sretenskaya.ru | 38 rooms| No meals | Station: Sukharevskaya or Kitai Gorod.

Ulanskaya (Улан­ская). 

HOTEL | Functional rooms in the back of a monolithic government building have drab modern furnishings and cover all the shades of beige and gray, colored only by 17th-century-style lithographs, at this hotel. The main attraction is the surrounding historical neighborhood; also highly praised are the reception attendants, who greet you with cheery smiles. An upbeat attitude is also audible some nights in the restaurant, where the house band is led by one of Russia’s most celebrated jazz musicians, saxophonist Igor Butman. The tree-lined Boulevard Ring is a two-minute walk away and Red Square a pleasant half-hour stroll. Pros: lots of dining options and bars nearby; steps from the metro; cheerful service. Cons: standard rooms are small; bouncy beds; drab decor. | Rooms from: 5248R | 16 per. Ulansky, bldg. 1A, Kitai Gorod | 495/151–1103 | www.ulanskaya.com | 61 rooms | No meals | Station: Turgenevskaya or Sretensky Bulvar.

ULITSA TVERSKAYA

Golden Apple.

HOTEL | These accommodations are cozy, stylish, and quirky all at the same time, designed with plenty of color and contemporary flair. You get a sense of what’s in store from the moment you walk through the door—shiny metallic panels clash with bright, oddly shaped armchairs in the lobby bar, and the enormous golden apple next to the front desk turns out to be a comfortable sofa. Each of the hotel’s seven floors is painted a different color, and in a reference to the Chekhov play, some rooms have huge propeller-like iron seagulls hanging from the ceiling. Pros:chocolate appears in guest rooms daily; helpful staff. Cons: some rooms are small; high rate for the level of accommodation. | Rooms from: 9700R | 11 ul. Malaya Dmitrovka, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/980–7000 |www.goldenapple.ru | 92 rooms, 2 suites | No meals | Station: Chekhovskaya or Pushkinskaya.

Hotel National (На­ци­ональ). 

HOTEL | If you seek historical splendor, assiduous service, and plenty of plush comforts, this 1903 landmark, the city’s most elegant hotel, is for you. Downstairs, a great marble staircase, prodigious portraits and landscapes in gilded frames, and a Viennese-style café with a spectacular panoramic view strike a note of refined grandeur. Upstairs, rooms are furnished with polished-oak furniture upholstered in silk, sumptuous beds, and all sorts of technologically advanced gadgetry. For some capitalistic indulgence, you can stay in a two-room suite where Lenin lived for a time in 1918. Pros: outstanding location across a plaza from Red Square; helpful concierge staff; stunning room decor. Cons: some rooms overlook nearby roofs; pool is small; the health club is dull. | Rooms from: 12825R | 1 ul. Mochovaya, bldg. 15, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/258–7000 | www.national.ru | 202 rooms, 56 suites | No meals | Station: Okhotny Ryad.

InterContinental Moscow Tverskaya.

HOTEL | These distinctive new lodgings on the site of the demolished Soviet Minsk hotel pamper guests in contemporary luxury, accented by an enthusiastically helpful staff. Acres of marble and glass swath the sophisticated surroundings—rather gaudily in the sprawling lobby but with especially pleasing effect in the lavish bathrooms. The Tverskaya shops, several metro stations, and the Kremlin are within walking distance. Pros: excellent central location; free minibar; good in-house restaurants and bars; many business services. Cons: no swimming pool; somewhat cold and gaudy public areas. | Rooms from: 10620R | 22 ul. Tverskaya, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/787–8887 |www.ihg.com | 184 rooms, 19 suites | No meals | Station: Tverskaya or Mayakovskaya.

Marriott Grand (Мар­ри­отт Грандъ-Отель). 

HOTEL | Once you step inside, past the renovated turn-of-the-20th-century facade, you’ll likely feel very much at home—if home is the United States and if you’ve ever stayed at any of this ubiquitous chain’s other business-oriented hotels. You’ll even find eggs Benedict on the breakfast buffet. The Western-style rooms are spacious, and some overlook a peaceful courtyard. A round central staircase ascends from the lobby’s sunny atrium. Service is pleasant and Red Square is half a mile (1 km) away. Pros: beautiful lobby bar area with piano; excellent fitness center; extensive business services. Cons: overpriced food and drink; rather bland surroundings. | Rooms from: 8000R | 26 ul. Tverskaya, bldg. 1, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/937–0000 | www.marriottmoscowgrand.com | 372 rooms, 15 suites | No meals | Station: Mayakovskaya or Tverskaya.

Marriott Tverskaya (Мар­ри­отт Твер­ская). 

HOTEL | A haven of calm in an art noveau landmark amid bustling ulitsa Tverskaya, this hotel offers the standard chain amenities and more—a small, peaceful lobby, four-story atrium, and understated guest rooms done in a palette of ivory, rose, and olive with dark-wood furnishings. A sunny guests-only lounge offers coffee and tea in the morning and drinks at the end of the day, and the in-house restaurant, Gratzi, serves Italian fare. Pros: spacious rooms; comfortable beds; 24-hour health club. Cons: long walk from Red Square and the Kremlin. | Rooms from: 7500R | 34 ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya 1-ya, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/258–3000 | www.marriotthotels.com | 119 rooms, 43 suites | No meals | Station: Belorusskaya.

Peking (Пе­кин). 

HOTEL | This 1955, Soviet-era tower is a Moscow landmark, offering old-fashioned accommodations that, though upgraded, still evoke Stalinist Russia, as may the service and amenities. Guest rooms vary in size, so it makes sense to ask to see a few before checking in. Request one on a higher floor if any are available, so you can enjoy the views of central Moscow. Pros: convenient central location across the street from Moscow Conservatory’s Tchaikovsky Hall; several nice restaurants nearby. Cons: beds can be bouncy and service surly. | Rooms from: 6400R | 5 ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/650–2442 | www.hotelpeking.ru | 119 rooms, 21 suites | No meals | Station:Mayakovskaya.

Ritz-Carlton Moscow.

HOTEL | What many travelers consider to be the city’s finest luxury hotel—and with these rates, it ought to be—does its best to dazzle guests with sumptuously and traditionally furnished guest quarters that evoke tsarist Russia, as do the views of the onion domes of St. Basil’s. A decadent spa with swimming pool, lavish lounges, and a stunning rooftop terrace are among the many, many amenities. Even if it’s all too rich for your blood, it’s worth a stop just to check out the gold and marble foyer. Pros: prime location; exquisite surroundings and service. Cons: pricey. | Rooms from: 19500R | 3 ul. Tverskaya, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/225–8888 | www.ritzcarltonmoscow.ru | 334 rooms, 35 suites |No meals | Station: Okhotny Ryad.

Sheraton Palace (Ше­ратон Па­лас). 

HOTEL | The European business community loves this place, thanks to amenities that include a chauffeur-driven fleet of cars, though most rooms are small and crammed with chain-standard furnishings. Spacious comfort is assured those who can spring for the duplexes on the Towers Floor, a hotel-within-a-hotel with its own reception and lounge. The location at the far upper end of ulitsa Tverskaya is excellent, and the soundproof windows keep things quiet. Pros: well-organized transportation from airports; delicious breakfast (not included in most rates); helpful staff. Cons: a long walk from the Kremlin. | Rooms from: 8990R | 19 ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya 1-ya, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/931–9700, 7502/256–3000 outside Russia | www.starwood.com/sheraton | 221 rooms, 18 suites | No meals | Station: Belorusskaya.

Sleepbox Hotel Tverskaya.

HOTEL | The first capsule hotel in Russia is made up of compact, windlowless capsules, much like train compartments, each with one to three beds, limited storage space, and shared facilities (though several standard rooms with bathrooms are also available). The futuristic design and tight quarters may or may not be appeal, though a convenient location and bargain price for downtown Moscow may well compensate. Note that many beds are reached by a ladder, not making this a good choice for travelers with mobility issues; nor are the little pods suited to those with claustrophobia—or a lot of luggage. Pros: spotless; fun for George and Jane Jetson types into futuristic design.Cons: shared facilities in most units; lack of space and windows might invoke claustrophobia. | Rooms from: 2900R |27 ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya 1-ya, Ulitsa Tverskaya | 495/989–4104 | www.sleepbox-hotel.ru | 61 rooms, 5 with bath |No meals | Station: Belorusskaya.

ULITSA BOLSHAYA NIKITSKAYA

Arbat House.

HOTEL | Rooms in this former guesthouse for the Georgian embassy are a mix of the basic and the updated, with brown wall-to-wall carpeting and cramped bathrooms, but also plasma TVs and large beds. Some nice quirks remain: a marble staircase with a cherub statue; a mystifying ceramic piece by much-maligned artist Zurab Tsereteli, who is famous for his statue of Peter the Great that stands at a bend in the Moscow River; and a small portrait of Ramzan Kadyrov, the controversial president of Chechnya, hanging in the stairwell. Views from rooms are nothing special, but the surrounding area is one of the city’s most charming. Pros: excellent location; spacious rooms; attractive restaurant. Cons: odd atmosphere and decor; negligible views. | Rooms from: 6726R | 13 per. Skatertny, Ulitsa Bolshaya Nikitskaya | 495/660–7178 | www.melody-hotel.com | 72 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast | Station: Arbatskaya or Tverskaya.

Courtyard Marriott (Кортъ­ярд Мар­ри­отт). 

HOTEL | These spacious, functional, and comfortable guest rooms, some with views of the Kremlin, are in the heart of the historical center, across from St. Andrew’s Anglican Church and near the Moscow Conservatory. Three interconnected buildings include a cozy atrium and a two-story historical structure facing pereulok Voznesensky.Pros: wide selection of restaurants and coffee shops in the area; very comfortable beds. Cons: small fitness room and no pool. | Rooms from: 9775R | 7 per. Voznesensky, Ulitsa Bolshaya Nikitskaya | 495/981–3300 |www.marriott.com | 208 rooms, 10 suites | No meals | Station: Pushkinskaya or Tverskaya.

Marco Polo Presnja (Мар­ко По­ло Прес­ня). 

HOTEL | Once a former residence for English teachers then later the exclusive domain of the Communist Party, this hotel has many rooms with balconies overlooking a quiet green residential neighborhood near Patriarch’s Ponds. In warm months, the inner courtyard is an attractive place to relax. This is an intriguing choice for those interested in the Soviet era: the auditorium was once the movie house where party insiders came to see Western films unavailable to most Muscovites. Pros: art-lined halls and rooms; near cafés and bars. Cons: some unfriendly staff; some guest rooms are small and a bit dark; room rates rather high for amenities offered. | Rooms from: 10152R | 9 per. Spiridonevsky, Ulitsa Bolshaya Nikitskaya | 495/660–0606, 499/244–3631 | www.presnja.ru | 54 rooms, 16 suites |Breakfast | Station: Mayakovskaya or Pushkinskaya.

ARBAT

Lotte Hotel.

HOTEL | With towering black marble columns and a spiky crystal chandelier, the lobby feels like the palace of a fashionable but villainous monarch, while guest rooms surrounding an atrium are warm, plush, and fully equipped. A touch of chilly luxury also permeates the low-lit lobby bar and the hotel’s showcase restaurant, Les Menus Par Pierre Gagnaire, named for the French culinary great who constructed its menu. Down a staircase from the expansive lobby is a Japanese restaurant and an enchanting, catacomblike spa, one of the hotel’s highlights, where passageways with white pebbles underfoot lead to private chambers for massages and other treatments. On the western end of ulitsa Novy Arbat, which is essentially one long shopping center, and just over the river from one of Moscow’s skyscraper-filled business quarters, the Lotte is convenient for just about everything but sightseeing. Pros: impressive restaurants; unique spa; luxurious marble bathrooms. Cons: standard rooms are on the small side; so-so views. |Rooms from: 22225R | 8 bul. Novinsky, bldg. 2, Arbat | 495/745–1000, 495/287–0500 for reservations |www.lottehotel.ru | 304 rooms, 38 suites | No meals | Station: Arbtaskaya.

KROPOTKINSKY DISTRICT

Kebur Palace (Ке­бур Па­лас Kebur Palas).

HOTEL | In this small, attractive hotel built in the style of an old Georgian town house, guest rooms are large and have views of a small square and a fountain through floor-to-ceiling windows.It’s in the heart of one of Moscow’s most glamorous neighborhoods: the massive Cathedral of Christ Our Savior and the venerable Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts are nearby, and the Kremlin is only a mile north. Two suites have hot tubs, and one two-story supersuite has a hot tub and sauna. Pros: excellent location; lots of natural light. Cons: some rooms are noisy due to a Georgian restaurant attached to the hotel; some room decor is a bit staid and dark. | Rooms from: 10660R | 32 ul. Ostozhenka, Kropotkinsky District | 495/733–9070 | www.keburpalace.ru | 79 rooms, 7 suites | Breakfast | Station:Kropotkinskaya.

Krasnaya Zarya (Крас­ная За­ря). 

HOTEL | The slick and minimalist rooms that line two floors of what was once an employee club at the Krasny Oktybr chocolate factory on an island in the Moskva River still give out an industrial vibe, softened with stylish contemporary furnishings. On the ground floor there’s a restaurant with a trendy eclectic menu and prints of prerevolution advertising posters on its walls. The metro is a 10-minute walk away, and the Kremlin and other sights are just a bit farther. Pros: surrounded by trendy bars and restaurants; spacious, comfortable rooms; central location.Cons: minimal support staff; interiors are rather bare; noise from the bar next door on weekends. | Rooms from: 5740R | 3/10 per. Bersenevsky, bldg. 8, Kropotkinsky District | 495/980–4774 | www.red-zarya.ru | 8 rooms | No meals |Station: Borovitskaya.

ZAMOSKVORECHE

Baltschug Kempinski (Бал­чуг Кем­пин­ски). 

HOTEL |Many of the stately and well-equipped rooms at this deluxe hotel, perched on the banks of the Moskva River, have extraordinary views of the Kremlin and Red Square. The building is from the 19th century, but the plush interior dates to the 1990s (with recent updates), when the Baltschug became one of the first hotels to introduce post-Soviet-era Russians to luxury lodgings. The mezzanine bar is known citywide for its voluminous vodka menu, and for the underage set, a special program for guests under 12 starts out with sweets upon arrival and continues with a kids’ menu in the restaurant and a range of cultural events. Pros: close to Red Square; best breakfast in town (extra with most rates); kid friendly; gracious service. Cons: far from metro. | Rooms from: 17600R | 1 ul. Baltchug,Zamoskvoreche | 495/287–2000 | www.kempinski-moscow.com | 190 rooms, 40 suites | No meals | Station:Novokuznetskaya or Tretyakovskaya.

Katerina–City (Ка­тери­на Си­ти Katerina Siti).

HOTEL | Comfortable, modern rooms occupy this renovated prerevolutionary mansion and a modern eight-story annex, complemented by nice views and friendly service.Dark-blue furniture contrasts smartly with the yellow-fabric-covered walls, which are lined with watercolors. A fully stocked—and free!—minibar is a pleasant extra. Staff is friendly and helpful, views of the picturesque Moskva River and New Savior Monastery are splendid, and the on-site Stockholm restaurant, serving traditional Scandinavian and Russian cuisine, is a big plus. Pros: tasty breakfast (extra); smoke-free; complimentary coffee and minibar. Cons: businesslike and functional. | Rooms from: 10700R |6 nab. Shlyuzovaya, Zamoskvoreche | 495/795–2444 | www.katerinahotels.com | 120 rooms, 10 suites | No meals |Station: Paveletskaya.

Medea (Ме­дея Medeja).

HOTEL | If you’re looking for privacy and quiet in the very heart of the city, these spacious, clean, and functional guest rooms in a 19th-century mansion are the place for you.Almost all include miniature mobile kitchens with electric burners, dishes, and refrigerators, and on the ground floor is a fairly good Italian café. Pros: steps from the metro; helpful staff; kitchens in most rooms. Cons: on a grungy side street; negligible views. | Rooms from: 6500R |4 per. Pyatnitsky, bldg. 1, Zamoskvoreche | 495/232–4898 | www.medea-hotel.ru | 21 rooms, 15 suites | No meals |Station: Tretyakovskaya or Novokuznetskaya.

Ozerkovskaya (Озер­ков­ская). 

HOTEL | In this refreshingly homey place, hallways are lined with Oriental rugs and the plainly furnished guest rooms are large and some have tremendous views of the tower and onion-domed church of Novospassky Monastery to the east. The staff strives to make guests feel at home, and there’s an affordable full-service restaurant in a neighboring mixed-use building, where a basement-level spa is also open to hotel guests. Pros: helpful staff; decent location; great views from some rooms. Cons: small common areas; unexciting decor; linens could use an update. |Rooms from: 5800R | 50 nab. Ozerkovskaya, bldg. 2, Zamoskvoreche | 495/951–9582 | www.ozerkhotel.ru | 27 rooms |No meals | Station: Paveletskaya.

Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy (Swissôtel Крас­ные Хол­мы). 

HOTEL | This tallest luxury hotel in town, a 34-story sleek glass-and-metal cylinder that holds its own with Stalin’s Seven Sisters, also has some of the largest guest rooms in town, warmly done with chestnut-wood walls. A favorite with European businesspeople, this hotel is in the heart of a booming business district not far from Paveletsky train station and next to the Moscow House of Music. Several top-shelf restaurants include the Asian-inspired Kai, which often hosts Michelin-starred chefs from Europe, and the City Space bar on the top floor, with cosmic cocktails and fantastic views. Pros: stunning view of Moscow from top-floor City Space bar; caviar and champagne for breakfast (not included in most rates); beautiful pool and spa. Cons: not the most convenient location if you’re planning to use the metro; expensive everything. | Rooms from: 13500R | 52 nab. Kosmodamianskaya, bldg. 6, Zamoskvoreche |495/787–9800 | www.swissotel.com | 233 rooms, 27 suites | No meals | Station: Paveletskaya or Taganskaya.

NORTHERN OUTSKIRTS

Cosmos (Кос­мос). 

HOTEL | Years of heavy tourist traffic have dulled the shine on the French-furnished interiors here—the 26-floor complex was built by the French for the 1980 Olympics—but the rooms are adequate and clean, and some have been recently renovated. The spacious, two-story lobby is decorated with a sculpture that resembles a model of a molecule, typical of the Soviet-era decor throughout. Major sights are a distance away, but the metro is nearby and if a convention or trade show brings you to town, the All-Russian Exhibition Center is across the street. Pros: bargain prices; funky retro Soviet-era flavor; several restaurants and bars on premises. Cons: Soviet-style service; full of tour groups; far from many sights. | Rooms from: 3567R | 150 Mira pr., Northern Outskirts | 495/234–1206 | www.hotel-cosmos.ru | 1,777 rooms | No meals | Station: VDNKh.

Heliopark Empire Hotel.

HOTEL | Fresh decor, with cream-colored walls, button leather sofas, and good, firm beds, make up for the rather small rooms here, while soundproof windows ward off incessant street noise from the narrow, traffic-jammed ulitsa Brestskaya. The surrounding buildings remain shabby, making the views less than desirable. Breakfast is hearty and tasty, and the intimate nook of a restaurant serves a large selection of reasonably priced Russian and European fare.Pros: central location; pleasant, attentive staff. Cons: poor views; no gym or pool. | Rooms from: 7913R | 60 ul. Brestskaya 1, Northern Outskirts | 499/251–6413 | www.heliopark.ru | 33 rooms, 1 junior suite, 5 deluxe rooms |Breakfast | Station: Belorusskaya.

Holiday Inn Lesnaya (Хо­лидей Инн Лес­ная ‘holidei ‘in lis’naya).

HOTEL | This 12-story hotel’s big advantage is its conference facilities and central location on Lesnaya ulitsa, near Belorussky station and just steps away from ulitsa Tverskaya.Rooms are spacious, with walls stylishly decorated in beige, ivory, and terra-cotta. All standard rooms have Wi-Fi and tea and coffeemakers. The hotel offers guests “a pillow menu” from which to choose various types and sizes of pillows. The restaurant isn’t much, but there is a wealth of eating options on its street in both directions. Pros: location convenient to metro; helpful, friendly staff.Cons: a long walk to the Kremlin; business conferences can crowd the hotel. | Rooms from: 5100R | 15 ul. Lesnaya,Northern Outskirts | 495/783–6500 | www.holidayinn.com | 301 rooms, 17 suites | Station: Belorusskaya.

Novotel Moscow Center (Но­вотель Мос­ква-Центр Novotel Moskva-Centr).

HOTEL | Functional and efficient, if a bit unimaginative, rooms here come with all the usual amenities, and some of them have rather interesting shapes (the building itself is cylindrical).The 18-story tower stands next to the Meyerhold complex, which includes a theatrical center, offices, and retail space. Pros: lots of cafés and bars in the area; reasonably priced. Cons: staff isn’t well-versed in tourist information. | Rooms from: 6290R | 23 ul. Novoslobodskaya, Northern Outskirts | 495/780–4000 | www.novotel.com | 255 rooms, 1 suite | No meals | Station:Mendeleyevskaya.

Renaissance Moscow Olympic (Ре­нес­санс Мос­ква Олим­пик). 

HOTEL | Rooms are large and equipped with every amenity at this hotel, busy with conferences and meetings but far from the city center. An executive floor has a lounge for breakfast, butler service, and a separate reception area. Among the many amenities is a theater that shows English-language films. Athletes competing or musicians performing in the nearby Olympic Sports Stadium—used for volleyball, tennis, swimming, and other sporting events, as well as large-scale concerts—often stay here. Pros: attentive staff; comfortable beds; shuttle bus service to city center every hour. Cons: far from Kremlin; closest metro is 15-minute walk away. | Rooms from: 7800R | 1 Olympisky pr., bldg. 18, Northern Outskirts | 495/931–9000 | www.marriott.com | 475 rooms, 12 suites | No meals |Station: Prospekt Mira.

Sovietsky Historical (Отель Со­вет­ский). 

HOTEL | Plunge into Soviet-era grandeur at what even Russian guests consider to be a “time machine,” with marble columns, comfortable sofas, Socialist realist art, grand chandeliers, and a “shabby chic” ethos in the high-ceilinged guest rooms. Public areas are extremely well maintained, while guest quarters are spotless but charmingly outdated. Service is generally gracious, but stumbles at times. Pros: very spacious, clean, and well-lit rooms; famous Russian restaurant, Yar, on premises. Cons: a 15-minute walk to the metro; a bit noisy. | Rooms from: 5776R | 2 Leningradsky pr., bldg. 32, Northern Outskirts | 495/960–2000 | www.sovietsky.ru | 106 rooms, 24 suites | Breakfast |Station: Dinamo or Belorusskaya.

SOUTHERN OUTSKIRTS

Danilovskaya (Да­нилов­ская). 

HOTEL | A serene and lovely setting inside the walls of the Danilovsky (St. Daniel) Monastery provides a backdrop of fountains, religious-themed paintings, and domes for these simple, tidy guest quarters with crisp new linens, lacquered-wood furnishings, and polished parquet floors. Three deluxe suites, complete with stone dining tables and canopied beds, are vast. The restaurant sources many of its recipes from old religious texts, though its real forte is baked goods, multitudes of which are continually extracted from tall ovens to provide guests their daily bread. The monastery is the official residence of Patriarch Kirill I of Moscow and All Russia, and the church holds conferences here and also sponsors concerts and exhibitions. Though far from the center, the hotel is just a five-minute walk from a metro station. Pros: nice grounds; clean (though plain) rooms; excellent pirozhki (traditional Russian pastries). Cons: remote location; staff can be a bit stern. | Rooms from: 5166R | 5 per. Bolshoi Starodanilovsky,Southern Outskirts | 495/954–0503 | www.danilovsky.ru | 131 rooms, 25 suites | Breakfast | Station: Tulskaya.

Hotel Kolomenskoye (Ко­ломен­ское). 

HOTEL | Accommodations are bare bones, with linoleum floors, plain furnishings, and low beds, but the price is right, and as a bonus, a sense of elegance prevails in this estate-like setting on the grounds of the sprawling park of the same name. While you’d be hard-pressed to find a better rate for this level of hotel in Moscow, you can expect a few perks, too, including a friendly welcome for kids and a playground, and a convenient location two stops south of the center on the metro’s green line. Pros: spotless; basic in-house restaurant; no-smoking rooms available. Cons:outside center in rather dull area; basic, institutional surroundings. | Rooms from: 3800R | 39 Andropova pr.,Southern Outskirts | 499/725–1174 | www.hotel-kolomenskoye.ru | 22 rooms | No meals | Station: Kolomenskaya.

Hotel Universitet (Уни­вер­си­тет­ская). 
HOTEL | Quarters are small but much more comfortable and attractive than you might expect in this bargain-priced, dorm-like setting near the prestigious Moscow State University. A few flourishes include views from some units that extend all the way to the golden domes of the Kremlin and an in-house restaurant and bar. The hotel is managed by the Pilgrimage Center of the Moscow Patriarchate, so expect to find yourself surrounded by religious groups. Pros:very attractive accommodations for the price; a lot of big-hotel amenities. Cons: rather staid; a lot of groups; not in center and a distance from metro. | Rooms from: 4000R | 8/29 Michurinsky pr., Southern Outskirts | 499/147–2062 |www.hotel-universitet.ru | 264 rooms | No meals | Station: Universitet.

EASTERN OUTSKIRTS

Gamma-Delta Izmailovo (Гам­ма-Дель­та Из­май­ло­во). 
HOTEL | This mammoth complex comprises four hotels: Alfa, Beta, Gamma, and Delta, with the last two most commonly used by foreigners and, though the Soviet past is much in evidence, offering well-maintained rooms with modern furnishings. A two-minute walk from the lively Izmailovsky flea market, this is a convenient place for the serious souvenir shopper. It’s also adjacent to a metro station, close to Izmailovo Royal Estate, and near Izmailovsky Park, one of the biggest in the city; otherwise this is a trek from most tourist sights. Staff members treat guests reciprocally, so be convivial if you want good service. Pros: excellent views of the city and the neighboring pond from upper floors; bargain prices. Cons: far away from the center and most tourist sights; standard rooms are small. |Rooms from: 3000R | 71 shosse Izmailovskoye, Eastern Outskirts | 495/166–4490, 495/737–7000 | www.izmailovo.ru |2,000 rooms, 28 suites | No meals | Station: Partizanskaya.

WESTERN OUTSKIRTS

Radisson Royal (Ук­ра­ина). 

HOTEL | One of the famed Seven Sisters skyscrapers commissioned by Stalin in the 1950s pampers present-day capitalists in luxurious Italianate guest rooms, jauntily decorated lounges, and a world-class spa. The original foyer’s white marble floors and columns are now augmented with rows of boutiques, and in another welcome break from the hotel’s Soviet roots, the service is genial and professional. The building’s height provides for extraordinary views on three sides, which are best seen at the Italian and Japanese restaurants that occupy the 30th and 31st floors. Pros:friendly service; great views; diverse dining options; impressive swimming pool area with hot tub and hamam(Turkish bath). Cons: far from metro and the Kremlin; expensive. | Rooms from: 11000R | 2/1 Kutuzovsky pr., bldg. 1, Western Outskirts | 495/221–5555 | www.radisson.ru/royalhotel-moscow | 497 rooms, 38 suites | No meals | Station:Kievskaya.

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